Bike types for the first-time cyclist

Here we'll cover very briefly the main types of bikes (by frequency of exposure for someone not already in a cycling niche) and what sets them apart. My hope is that it will be useful for someone wanting to get into cycling but who doesn't have a really clear view on what kind of bike they want. 

It's also moderately meant to be a quick-and-dirty precursor to the road bike and hybrid/commuter buying guides. Those are the only ones I feel even mildly qualified to talk about at length, but if I find resources I like on other types then I'll link them in those sections. 

One last thing - the photo examples are for visual reference; I’m familiar with some but not all of the specific models pictures, and do not endorse any of the bikes pictured over other bikes in those categories. Also, those photos are almost all from manufacturer websites.

Main axes of distinction 

Tire size - measured in wheel diameter and tire thickness, units usually determined by bike type (road bike tires are often in milimeters like 700x25, mountain would be in inches like 26x2.20). Thicker (second measurement dimension) and knobbier tires are heavier slower, but more resistant to punctures. Typically, the thicker your tire the lower pressure you're going to use. 

Geometry - how the tubes on the bike come together. Which angles they meet at, how long they are. Geometry plays a large role in how upright you sit on the bike, which is a determinant of how 'race-y' or 'relaxed' it feels. Geometry changes a little between sizes of the same bike model, but stays fairly stable compared to changes between models and types. 

Materials - steel and titanium are very durable metals with very long wear lives, but heavier than aluminum, which is the workhorse metal for new entry- and mid-level model road and commuter bikes (and, I believe, mountain). Carbon fiber is significantly lighter, but more expensive, and historically has suffered from fragility and catastrophic breaks. Those problems are becoming far less common, and carbon repair is now significantly more available than it was 10-15 years ago. 

Suspension - all bikes do something to mitigate the bumpiness of riding surfaces. However, hardcore suspension that negates vast amounts of road/trail noise usually comes at a weight and aerodynamic cost, as well as a monetary component cost and sometimes a maintenance cost. In the materials list, steel is the least shock-absorbent, then aluminum, then carbon. 

Brakes/freehub - most bikes should have brakes and the ability to coast. Track bikes do not have either, because that's safer for the sport in which they're used. Especially popular in the mid-2010s were fixies, fixed-gear bicycles that couldn't coast because of a fixed rear hub (as opposed to a freehub that allows the rear wheel to spin independently of the pedals) and lacked one or both brakes. Brakes are also delineated into general categories of rim and disk, rim slowing you down by clamping the rim of the wheel and disk by stopping a disk of metal tied to the hub of the wheel. Rim brakes are cheaper and require less finesse, but disk brakes perform better in wet or muddy conditions and are generally thought to be more powerful.

Weight - generally, the lighter your bike, the faster and more expensive it is. 

In any category, you'll have subtypes and different ideas about what that category means. You'll also have an array of price points, each targeting a specific type of rider. In most cases, a section will have a standard range of componentry for entry-level bikes, one for mid-level bikes, and one for high-end or race bikes. Below, I'll try to paint a broad picture rather than get bogged down in describing all of the variation available. 

Types of bikes 

(in order of me being fairly certain in my knowledge)

Road - specifically meant for going reasonably fast on decently-paved roads. Thinner tires, suspension only in handlebar and fork materials (aluminum frames with carbon forks for road noise suppression are common), geometry that pushes you into a more aerodynamic position optimised for speed rather than comfort (not least of all by use of drop handlebars), lots of options for materials but typically aluminum and carbon fiber are best-loved, rim or disk brakes depending on preference, lighter than most other types because of material choices and lack of suspension. Usually no or few mounting points other than bottle cages. 

Gravel/cyclocross - gravel and cross bikes are theoretically two separate categories, but they share so many characteristics that it is worth talking about them together. Somewhere between road and mountain, usually leaning toward road aesthetics (drop bars!) but with thicker tires and disk brakes to navigate rougher trails. Similar to road in most other respects, notably lack of 'robust' suspension. Cross cycling is something like Tough Mudder on a bike and tends to be a more race-focused geometry, gravel is more built for adventure touring and is a good all-rounder if you like the look and feel of a road bike. 

Hybrid - also called comfort, city, commuter, fitness, or any other word that means those words. These are your Platonic ideal of bike you've known since childhood. Flat bars, thicker but still smooth tires, upright geometry, often aluminum, no robust suspension but the tires help, rim brakes with disk being more and more common as an option, heavier than dedicated road bikes. Usually have some mounting points for a rear rack or other cargo needs. Usually more accessibly priced than pure road/gravel/mountain bikes. 

Track - made specifically for velodrome (track) cycling, with specialised tires that would be ruined by repeated road riding. Small, light, no brakes no coasting. Terrifying. Exhilarating. To be respected. Typically extremely aggressive ride position, as well (more evident in the Aventon than the Cinelli below).

Fixie (fixed-gear) - like a track bike but not for the track. Favored sometimes because they're light, easy to care for, and relatively inexpensive. Bikes without brakes or coasting are not as safe on streets as bikes with brakes. Note: a "single-speed" sometimes allows coasting based on rear hub choice. All fixies are single-speeds, not all single-speeds are fixies. 

Cross-country mountain - meant for trail riding but nothing excessively 'Red Bull Rampage'-level. Hardtails are bikes with front but no rear suspension forks, full-suspension have both. I would say hardtails are more 'classically' cross-country and full-suspension lean more towards downhill mountain, but I am not qualified to say for sure. Thicker, knobbier tires. Generally a choice between 26", 650b (27.5"), and 29" wheel diameter, although I believe 650b is being phased out. Always disk brakes. Heavier than other types of bikes as a general rule, with full-suspension being heavier than hardtails. 

Downhill mountain - for going fast down trails. More descending-oriented geometry, overall many of the same characteristics as cross-country except in that I think most downhill bikes are full-suspension. Saddle may be positioned slightly more out of the way than on a cross-country bike. You can also buy a carbon-fiber downhill bike, which confuses me because of the amount of times my mountain friends post pictures of gnarly crashes. 

Beach cruisers - not for use at beaches. Yes for use cruising. Extremely heavy, much heavier than you think, but most often priced very accessibly. Thick, smooth tires, very upright (comfort-focused) geometry, very rarely not steel or aluminum, no suspension to speak of except the massive tires and cushy saddle, usually rim brakes. Have a bad rap on campuses because of the amount of slots the large handlebars take up in a bike rack. 

Honorable mention: custom - if your tastes are somewhere in the hybrid-road-gravel-mountain range, there is a good chance you have a custom builder nearby who could suggest something cool. These are not necessarily a category in the sense that they're a different discipline, but you do often have more choices in geometry, tire size, materials, and brake choice than with traditional mass-produced bikes. 

Assorted other types - tandem road/mountain/track, dirt jumpers (for pump tracks, I think?), ebikes of all sorts, tri-specific bikes (somewhat a subset of road), winter bikes (whichever category, a 'beater' for training in mud/rain if you have another bike you cherish and don't want to take out in poor conditions), touring (usually in the gravel-ish class, sometimes modified specifically to hold more gear), cargo, BMX, fatbike (can apply to mountain-like frames as well as beach cruisers), folding (Brompton is a common starting point in research).

Decision points

So how do you decide on a bike?

If you’re very new to cycling, I’d say look on the entry-level side of a category that interests you. Even if your budget can stretch farther, aiming low will give you room to explore what feels best to you. Best-case scenario, you fall in love with the bike and ride it until the frame wears out in thirty years. Otherwise, less expensive bikes tend to sell quicker on resale sites, so if/when you develop more concrete opinions on what you’d like out of a bike and look to upgrade then that’s an easier option than trying to resell a $5,000 race bike.

Typically, unless you think you’ll have a preference for a certain type of riding, I’d recommend a hybrid/commuter/fitness/city bike, or whatever your manufacturer will call it. A flat-bar bike typically freaks people out less on their first few rides than do drop bars, and you can maybe still tackle some easy gravel trails and get a feel for off-roading. Really, the goal here is to have fun, because a bike that lets you have fun and feel safe is a lot more likely to get out of the garage. However, if you live near mountain trails and are interested in trying those out, by all means consider a mountain-specific bike. I would recommend against a cruiser or fixie unless there’s a specific stylistic choice you’re going for. Beach cruisers tend to be very heavy and unweildy, and fixies are not great safety-wise if you live in a hilly or heavily-trafficked area.

Quick plug for velodromes, though. Look up your nearest track, it might be closer than you’d imagine. Velodromes typically offer beginner series, bike rentals, and just general good times. It sounds a little terrifying at first to ride a brakeless, coastless bike, but everyone on the track is in the same position as you, and people tend to adapt quickly. Perhaps don’t go to a track as your very first time on a bike, but if you’re comfortable riding around town for a half-hour you should be fine to try track.

Also, make sure to plan for things like a helmet and some basic maintenance tools - even if you don’t know how to fix a flat tire yet, whoever stops to help you when you’re stranded with a flat will appreciate if you’re carrying a tube and some CO2.

last updated 12 Sep. 2020

Back to where you were (Cycling landing page)